Headsail modification

Post Reply
norfolk
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2009 7:14 pm

Headsail modification

Post by norfolk »

As a previous Freedom 38 owner, I must say I miss the boat tremendously (Except those nasty light air summer days on the Chesapeake.). While at the Annapolis boat show I visited the Sabre Spirit, Alerions, Hanse, and a handful of other designs that were playing with the self tending jib concept 20+ years after the fact. These designs were running their forestays from 75% up to all the way up to the masthead.

I seem to remember a posting on the original Freedom site of an F38 with a much taller jib. Haarstick had made the sail. Has anyone else played with this concept? If so what was entailed with the modification as far as attachment to the mast? Mark Edwards might have some recollection of this.

Was there any notable gain as far as speed was concerned?

Any comment on the 40/40s and Pedrick 35s with the over lapping headsails? Don't you have to use running back stays?

I still enjoy an occasional race, but we have a fair amount of light air days in the summer. That is why I am bringing this up.

User avatar
markedwards
Posts: 26
Joined: Thu Dec 18, 2008 10:17 am
Location: Dartmouth, MA
Contact:

Re: Headsail modification

Post by markedwards »

Hi Norfolk, I believe we discussed this question on the phone recently but thought a reply here might be useful to others as well. There are several points to respond to:

1) on the Freedom 36/38 design and almost all of the Gary Mull designs for that matter, the hoist of the jib was low even by fractional rig standards. Later Freedom 45's took the hoist higher and this made a noticeable difference in the performance. Several Freedom 36/38 owners modified their rigs by installing a new jib/spin/headstay plate and box higher than previously designed by about 4' and the hardware for this is something that Paul Dennis at Warren River Boatworks has developed.

2) the topic of self-tacking sails versus overlapping is more complicated. At one time we raced a Freedom 35 which had a camberspar jib as the primary sail but which was modified with a quick release pin so it could be quickly released from the headstay and an overlapping jib could be hanked on in it's place. The process of removing one hanked on sail for another hanked on sail is called "dead heading" because it leaves the boat with no headsail up at all for a brief moment. Clearly, this is not the most efficient way to go if racing is primary interest. But if you want the many benefits of a Camberspar jib for most of your cruising sailing but the occassional power of an overlapping headsail for those light air days or races, then this is really an acceptable way to go. We simply strapped the camberspar to the deck and carried on with our racing.

3) an alternative is to go with a roller furling working jib that can be sheeted in a way that remains self tacking. You have the simplicity of the self tending jib but the added convenience of rolling it up when done and the ability to more easily switch gears to a larger headsail when the time calls for it. No hanks and no camberspar in the way. A cleaner foredeck with no sail cover to put on and nothing in your way when anchoring or picking up a mooring. The roller furling system was a standard option at Freedom on the Pedrick designs and was chosen about 50% of the time.

The negative aspect of this choice, in my opinion, is that the Camberspar out performs the roller furling working jib because a) the camber in the spar retains a better and less full shape than a roller furling jib upwind, b) the camberspar will continue to hold shape and keep leech twist to a minimum when off the wind, c) the camberspar will wing itself out easily and be fully engaged running when the roller furled jib would do nothing, d) the bow and arrow affect of the camberspar against the headstay helps to sustain luff tension as the mast moves. On this last point, some Freedom owners with the roller furling setups have modified the lazy jacks to double as running backstays. This is simple to do and helps to stabilize the mast and "helps" with luff tension.

So, for people in Buzzards Bay or places where the wind is more or less reliable, the camberspar continues to make a great choice. If however you are sailing in Western Long Island Sound or the Chesapeake in the summer, then the greater power from an overlapping genoa would be important. Likewise, if you are racing and want to do well consistently and not just on heavy air days, then the ability to switch gears is important to you as well.

Ryley

Re: Headsail modification

Post by Ryley »

Mark,
any idea at what hull # the 45s when higher with the foretriangle? We have hull #28, and I know Paul Dennis did the bowsprit, which increased the size of the headsail, but I don't have any indication that the height of the jib was changed at all.

Lance

Post Reply