FreedomYachts.org

Hi

I have a Hoyt 32, same basic setup. I purchased a new jib from the same sailmaker about two years ago, and needed a new camberspar also as the one that came with the boat was too shortfor the new sail. When I put on the jib earlier this year, I started with the horns, as mine is a very snug fit, and I would have to stretch the jib way too far to get past the tip of the horns if I started from the luff. Then I clip in the ring on the back of the camberspar. Then I line up the sheave on the front of the camberspar with the forestay and install the retainer clip so everything lines up and slip in the bolt and the locknut and tighten it all up. This is easier if one of my slip neighbors helps, as the fit is tight, but right on. The trick, of course is to not drop any of that nice hardware over the side.

I think it took about fifteen minutes this time. Good luck.

Wayne Mitton
Hoyt 32/Running Free
Seattle,WA

First off I would never let the sail maker tell me I need a new spar to fit his sail. If he made the sail wrong the he can re-cut the sail to fit my rig.

On my Hoyt 32 I attach the luff on the head-stay then then pull the pin on the horns allowing you to slide it up and put the sail clew over the horns. With a second person you can pull the sail back while the second person puts the pin back in. By myself I tie a line through the clew and run it through the ring on the end of the camber spar and back through the clew a few times and then keep cinching it up until I can get the pin back in.

Actually, the sailmaker and I discussed different options over the phone, since he and I live on different sides of the country. The sail I had was about ten percent undersized, plus the original camberspar had been shortened and was showing its age. It was an easy decision to go with a new spec camberspar to go with a new sped sail. Not exactly being bullied by the sailmaker, the way I see it.

Wayne

I have a sister ship of Geoff's Blue Jacket 40/40 (1995 #16) with original Haarstick sails. The first many years, each spring I struggled installing the camberspar. I thought I tried everything. I tried attaching the tack roller onto the forestay first, but could not get the foot end horns into the jib grommets. I tried forcing it, pulling with winch, etc., but couldn't get it in. Then I tried attaching the foot end first, but then could not attach the tack (roller) end. I absolutely dreaded this job because I couldn't figure out how to do it. Eventually after struggling for a couple of hours each spring, I would somehow get it in place thinking, "thank God, this is finally over with until next spring." I finally figured out that the way to do it is to attach the foot end first, raise the sail, and then attach the tack end. Raising the sail seems to take all the pressure off the tack end of the camperpar. There still is a minor amount of pulling needed to line up the bolt holes of the metal adapter and the grommets of the jib, but raising the jib before trying to attach the tack end of the camberspar is the key.

My clew fits on relatively easy. In fact I have to use small stuff to secure it to the clew horns. Original sails from a loft in Michigan I believe when I bought boat in 2001. I am having Thurston Sails in Bristol RI make me a new jib for next season and his one condition was I give him the camber spar so he can design the sail to fit the spar. Hopefully that will alleviate installation problem. That's what you get when you use a good sailmaker.

Thanks for all of the ideas. Next time I will try raising the sail before I attach the second end.

This time I connected the forward end of the spar with the bolt, then moved to the horns at the leech. It was almost impossible until I rotated the camber spar to put the curve up, then pulled the sail with a sail tie in the grommets. Worked! I had the pin out so the horns were all the way forward, but moving that back seems like the easiest part.

Thanks again, it's great to get so much help here from other Freedom owners.

I'd go with what Stephen said but I also make sure that the curve of the spar in the sleeve is curved upwards making the chord, in comparison to the sail it self, as short as possible. Then tug.

No secret to my F32 system.

1. Attach tack to the base of forestay at the deck.
2. Attach the jib to the halyard.
3. Insert the spar with the bow facing the sky.
4. Attach the spar wheel and guide to the forestay.
5. Hank the rest of the sail grommets
6. Secure the clew to spar.