John,
I guess it's a little reassuring to me that my setup is normal, as yours is the same. I'll follow up with how it is turning out so stay tuned. I have the replacement plexiglass cut and ready on hand ($330 at a local glass shop). I'm waiting for a warmer day to fill some spots where fiberglass surface chunks pulled out with the plexi that I removed. Mine has 2 different era plexi, one side had hardened VHB tape that I had to ship off, the other side has newer (I assume) VHB tape that I have to slowly peal away by fingers.
Regarding your question, I think this is cored from the look of the screw holes. I am not an authority on this but making a recess sounds like an undertaking to me.
Installing the new plexi, Trisha above mentioned making oversized screw holes in the plexi. That makes a lot of sense to me. I think the plexi is mostly held by VHB tape and the screws bend it to the cabin. If the plexi naturally expands and contracts significantly, as some have mentioned, I think it may need to be allowed to shift, or flex, by having oversized screw holes. The tape and caulk will also allow for flex. Just my opinion on this but that's where I'm headed.
Port windows F32
- JohnReinagel
- Posts: 94
- Joined: Mon May 08, 2017 1:44 pm
- Location: Suburb of Buffalo, N.Y.
Re: Port windows F32
Regarding you last paragraph, the lack of expansion room is what I believe to be the root cause of the plexi on mine to crack. I won't know for certain until disassembly, but most radiate from screw holes. So yes, I agree that is absolutely necessary.
What thickness plexi are you using? Did you decide to go clear or tinted? I'm most likely going for a light tint.
As for recessing the plexi, if that section is cored then I will not even consider attempting it. One thing I don't have the patience for is finish work with fiberglass. I'm fine with everything short of finishing, my patience runs out long before I achieve the picture in my head.
I look forward to seeing the final product, good luck.
What thickness plexi are you using? Did you decide to go clear or tinted? I'm most likely going for a light tint.
As for recessing the plexi, if that section is cored then I will not even consider attempting it. One thing I don't have the patience for is finish work with fiberglass. I'm fine with everything short of finishing, my patience runs out long before I achieve the picture in my head.
I look forward to seeing the final product, good luck.
John
1984 Hoyt F32
Hull #53
1984 Hoyt F32
Hull #53
Re: Port windows F32
Still at this, I am not quick. I got all the plexi off a few days ago. Since then I've been removing the old VHB tape and filling in some cracks in the fiberglass underneath. I hope to start putting some of my new ones back in tomorrow.
John the plexi is 1/4 inch thick and I got nearly the same tint (the glass shop called it bronze). The plexi holes on the previous pieces were tight, threaded the plexi some. I'm surprised more areas of the plexi were not cracked. I am making oversized holes.
Hoping to wrap this up by mid week. I need to move on to cleaning up the bottom and painting. The put in date will come up fast I'm sure!
John the plexi is 1/4 inch thick and I got nearly the same tint (the glass shop called it bronze). The plexi holes on the previous pieces were tight, threaded the plexi some. I'm surprised more areas of the plexi were not cracked. I am making oversized holes.
Hoping to wrap this up by mid week. I need to move on to cleaning up the bottom and painting. The put in date will come up fast I'm sure!
Re: Port windows F32
I replaced mine with solid tempered glass, tinted. The original ones were cracked, old and leaky.
They used tape and caulked afterwards, very sleek, one long window. Zero screws. Looking for a picture that isnt too large to upload.
Glass gives way more light, less distortion and very difficult to break (hopefully).
They used tape and caulked afterwards, very sleek, one long window. Zero screws. Looking for a picture that isnt too large to upload.
Glass gives way more light, less distortion and very difficult to break (hopefully).
Scott Forgey
Girlfriend
Freedom 32 Hoyt #81
Girlfriend
Freedom 32 Hoyt #81
- JohnReinagel
- Posts: 94
- Joined: Mon May 08, 2017 1:44 pm
- Location: Suburb of Buffalo, N.Y.
Re: Port windows F32
sforgey2 that sounds interesting. I'd love to see how that looks. The picture in my imagination looks great but you know how those go lol.
John
1984 Hoyt F32
Hull #53
1984 Hoyt F32
Hull #53
Re: Port windows F32 - COMPLETED
Here's a few pics of the completed project. Very happy to get this done. Wish I had taken some pics from the inside because on one side of the boat we could not see out of the plexi at all. Some water on the windows after cleaning the deck.
Oversized screw holes (wish I had ordered the plexi 1/2 larger all around so as not to drill too close to the edge)
VHB tape
Dow Corning 795 structural silicone - used a dab here and there particularly if there was a gap in tape ends
White marine silicone on the outside, a little clear silicone on the inside (to fill some pockets left on inside between plexi and cabin)
Note pulled, cleaned, varnished the hand rail had rust coming out of one bolt.
Oversized screw holes (wish I had ordered the plexi 1/2 larger all around so as not to drill too close to the edge)
VHB tape
Dow Corning 795 structural silicone - used a dab here and there particularly if there was a gap in tape ends
White marine silicone on the outside, a little clear silicone on the inside (to fill some pockets left on inside between plexi and cabin)
Note pulled, cleaned, varnished the hand rail had rust coming out of one bolt.
- Attachments
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- 20200508_170036-small.jpg (65.42 KiB) Viewed 4412 times
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- Posts: 20
- Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2019 10:20 pm
Re: Port windows F32
These windows look great! Great job.
I couldn’t help notice the handrail removal. That’s ok my list of “to do”. It looks like it is secured using bolts and not screws? Did you just remove the wood plugs and was there nuts you backed off to remove? The bolts are embedded and anchored in the cabin top or so they go all the way through the cabin top?
I couldn’t help notice the handrail removal. That’s ok my list of “to do”. It looks like it is secured using bolts and not screws? Did you just remove the wood plugs and was there nuts you backed off to remove? The bolts are embedded and anchored in the cabin top or so they go all the way through the cabin top?
Re: Port windows F32
i will post some pics of the windows when I am back in Florida on my boat in the next few weeks. I don't have anything but high def photos...so I will have to take a few new ones.
Scott Forgey
Girlfriend
Freedom 32 Hoyt #81
Girlfriend
Freedom 32 Hoyt #81
Re: Port windows F32
Weirdo, I'm going to start a new thread for this under "Everything Else" because I don't have a good answer and I'd like to get input on that also. Watch for the post "Handrail" or Handrail attachment. Thanks. Tom
ps. Sforgey2 I would like to see those windows also! You may be able to save the pics you have with a reduced size, save as, or export with a reduced size (less than 125kb I think).weirdofreedom wrote: ↑Sun May 10, 2020 7:32 amThese windows look great! Great job.
I couldn’t help notice the handrail removal. That’s ok my list of “to do”. It looks like it is secured using bolts and not screws? Did you just remove the wood plugs and was there nuts you backed off to remove? The bolts are embedded and anchored in the cabin top or so they go all the way through the cabin top?
- JohnReinagel
- Posts: 94
- Joined: Mon May 08, 2017 1:44 pm
- Location: Suburb of Buffalo, N.Y.
Re: Port windows F32
TMack, those have a great look to them and I'm sure add to the attraction of the boat. Nice job.
John
1984 Hoyt F32
Hull #53
1984 Hoyt F32
Hull #53